Earlier, it was considered that unlike men, dogs need not to brush their teeth. At that time, it was believed that dogs used to eat and chew bone and skin that perhaps accomplished the same purpose. Now this is not the case and now dogs eat that food which we generally provide to them. That food is quite gentle on their teeth and gums that stresses the need of brushing. Plaque is the enemy of the teeth of dogs. When plaque is not regularly cleaned then it gets hardened and becomes tartar and later creeps below the gum line. That may result in tooth decay, tooth loss, infection and sores in the mouth.

However, the problems that crop up in the mouth unfortunately do not remain confined to it but lead to various other problems that may embrace kidney, lung, heart and liver problem. Now you may think how to know that your pet is having dental problems. So there are some signs which indicate that your dog is having dental problems, for example if your dog is having bad breath, shows reluctance to eat even when it is hungry or it seems to you that your dog is feeling pain while eating something. To save your dog from dental problem you can give your dog try food that will scrub away the developing plaque; however, it is important to know that dry food will not do this on its own. There are some foods available in the market specially made to check tartar.

In such foods, you can even find tartar control biscuits for dogs. These biscuits make it compulsory for the pets to chew them for a long time as a result that this hits the nail on the head. Another simple method of helping your dog to get rid of tartar is to use toothbrush and toothpaste which is easily available in the your nearest veterinary stores however, the flavor of that toothpaste is more likely to be poultry. You should never your toothpaste intended for humans for your dog as they may swallow them. You can normally brush the teeth of your dog twice a week. It is quite important to know that even regularly brushing your teeth may not remove the tartar from the teeth of your dog totally and in that case a veterinary my surely help you.

The sit command is the most popular and most used dog training command in the dog behaviour training world, and for good reason, the ‘sit’ command is the first command most dogs learn and is the basis for all other commands to be built upon.

Your dog should be taught the ‘sit’ command as soon as possible. It is the first step in obedience for your dog and should be taught as soon as your dog is comfortable with his/her name being called and is responding well to it.

So when is the best time to teach your dog this command? The timing is crucial for training your dog, once your dog is fairly comfortable with the command, it’s not a bad idea to practise often without care to other circumstances but to begin with timing and your dog’s frame of mind are very important.

You dog will respond best to your dog training methods before meals or when your dog is hungry, when your dog wants something he will be a lot more tolerable to train. Make sure you always reward your dog for doing well, as soon as they’re doing what they’re supposed to, reward them there and then, making your dog wait around will confuse your dog and make them more disobedient in the long run.

Now you know the basics of what to do and what not to do and when to do it, its time for the actual training. Before you start be sure you have treats ready for your dog when he performs well, start in a quiet room or place where your dogs attention won’t be distracted and make sure your dog knows you have treats to reward them with. Use the treat to hold above his head, slowly moving it directly above their head. In doing this, your dog should naturally fall back into the sitting position by bending their legs to keep track of the treat above. As soon as your dog’s rear touches the ground, reward them with lots of praise and the treat you used.

This may take several days or even weeks before your dog is completely comfortable with this exercise, if your dog refuses to be calm and stay in one place while you do the exercise, try using any of the discipline procedures at Dog-Behavior-Training.co.uk.

Getting angry with your dog during these exercises will not help the situation and it is always best to take time out if your feeling stressed or annoyed because your dog will sense these feelings and won’t want to cooperate even more.

Are you frustrated because your dog keeps exhibiting bad behavior that is embarrassing to you? Do you wonder why he always runs away when you go for a walk or jumps on people who come over to visit? An out of control dog is neither fun nor a good companion and the only way to tame the wild beast is with dog obedience training.

In fact with the proper training your four legged out of control friend may well turn into the best companion you’ve ever had, but you have to train him first. Training your dog should be a fun and rewarding if you go into it with the right attitude and show some patience. It may take some work to reverse the bad habits he has learned.

The most basic training will teach your dog to sit, stay, and come. These three commands make up the base of any obedience training class and are beneficial in furthering your dog’s ability to be obedient. Once the training starts to sink in you will be much more willing to take your dog out in public because you know that you will be able to control him much more easily.

You have two choices when it comes to training your dog; you can do it yourself or you can join a dog obedience class. A class is a good idea if you are having difficulty training at home or if you just don’t know where to start. Classes are taught by professional dog trainers who know all the tricks to get your dog to listen to what you want him to do. A class also gives your dog a chance to socialize with other dogs which is an important part of training. If he can follow commands with a bunch of other dogs around he will be much easier to control in public settings.

One of the most important parts of training, whether at home or in a class, is the interaction between owner and dog. All dogs live to please their owner and you can use that to reinforce the lessons. By using treats, praise, and physical attention you can have greater gains then if you are constantly reprimanding and shouting at your dog when he doesn’t follow your commands.

If you choose to train your dog at home you should try to keep any distractions to a minimum when first starting. Your back yard or an open field is a good choice. This will keep his attention focused on you as you work on the basics. As he progresses you can start taking him to areas that have a little more activity and other dogs around because most of the time you will need him to follow commands while there are distractions around.

Most bad behavior dog obedience training works by getting your dog to obey your commands in spite of the distractions going on around him. Most bad behavior is simply your dog looking for attention. When you train him you give him an outlet to please you which gives him the attention he desires.

Deciding to buy a puppy should be a careful, well-thought out decision. A dog can be the most rewarding of pets, but also one of the most demanding. Before you buy a puppy, please think first. Is there really time for a dog in your life, and can you give a commitment that might for 12 years, possibly more?

Do you have the time to provide the exercise and training that a dog requires throughout its life, provide a safe and secure home and afford a suitable and nutritious diet that will ensure the very best of health?

You should also take into consideration your health and age. Do you want an active or sedentary animal? Some dogs require almost constant attention, lots of exercise and stimulation. Others are more laid back; therefore you need to research which dog will suit you and your family’s lifestyle. For instance if you live in a flat and have limited free time, a Border Collie or Springer Spaniel would not be such a good idea, and would probably lead to behavioural difficulties, not only for the dog!

You will naturally want a puppy with a good temperament who will adapt happily to life as part of the family. Buying a puppy that has been home reared; exposed to everyday sights, sounds and smells should help the transition from life with Mum and litter mates to a new home and environment.

If you’re buying from a breeder make sure that they will let you come and see the puppies with their Mum and will answers all of your questions. Never ever let anyone bring the puppy out to you – you really do need to see the puppy and Mum together. If the person selling you the puppy tells you that this is not possible then just walk away.

This might seem like common sense, but the sad fact is that too many people are persuaded to buy a puppy at under 4 weeks of age, maybe without even seeing the mother. Then there are tales of woe from new owners who bought from a pet shop or puppy farm where the pup had been exposed to illness, fear or stress, and then wonder why they are experiencing health or behaviour problems later.

There are arguments as to the best time to separate a puppy from its mother.

The optimum time for socialisation is between 6 – 8 weeks when the puppy’s instinct to make friends with strangers overcomes its natural wariness, and this is generally considered the ideal time period for removing a puppy from its litter mates and mother.

For a puppy, being taken away from its mother and placed into a strange environment where nothing is familiar can be a frightening experience. Spend the first few days welcoming the puppy into your family, giving it lots of attention and mental stimulation and showing it the basics of what’s right and what’s wrong, where it can eat, sleep and go to the toilet.

Create a positive experience at all times. The escape and fear response has not fully developed in the first 12 weeks of development and so things out there in the ‘big wide world’ will not be so scary. Puppies do need to get used to the various stimuli that they will encounter in everyday life as early as possible. These include car rides, household and other strange noises, other animals, water and traffic.

Puppies go through many changes in the first 12 months of their lives and most of their learning and behavioural patterns are learnt in this time. Teach the puppy to socialise with humans and other dogs as soon as possible. A puppy has a short attention span so all training sessions should be frequent but brief. Simple obedience and the discouragement of unwanted behaviour will help to show you are ‘worthy’ of the puppy’s respect. Praise is important!

The earlier the training the better, even if it’s just the basics.

Vaccination is important to prevent your dog from becoming ill from infectious diseases. It stimulates the body’s own defence system to produce protective antibodies in the blood. The micro-organisms that cause disease can be widespread in certain areas of the U.K and unvaccinated dogs are at risk from a range of life-threatening diseases such as canine distemper, parvovirus, leptospirosis, infectious canine hepatitis and kennel cough.

A course of vaccinations will be needed for your puppy. These are usually given at around 9 and 12 weeks of age.

Worming is also important. It is possible that your puppy already has worms, which have been passed from its mother, and worming should be done every month until the puppy is 6 months old and then every 3-6 months.

It is important to choose the correct diet for your pup. Rapid growth can cause health problems in later life, so it’s best to feed a high quality, low protein and low fat food, such as BURNS Mini Bites, to enable your puppy to grow strong but steady. Avoid the temptation to fill the puppy with treats and sweets on top of his daily allowance, and if you do then take what ever treats are given out of the total food given in the day. Always provide a ready supply of fresh drinking water.

Puppies need lots of time, care and patience. Follow these guidelines and your efforts will be positively rewarded.

For the new dog owner there is nothing quite as frustrating as potty training a dog. Teaching your dog that she needs to go outside when she needs to go to the bathroom is what house training is all about. It will take a little time but if you are patient with your new four legged friend she will soon do her business outside.

The first thing you will need to do is realize that punishing your dog is not the best way to get them to do what you want them to. Most dogs relieve themselves in the house because they don’t know any better. Many times they will actually wait outside patiently until you let them in and then relieve themselves because that is what they are used to. Catching them in the act and giving a firm “No” and then taking them outside works best if this is the case. Rubbing their nose in it and yelling at them can actually make the problem worse because your dog will come to fear you instead of learning from her mistakes.

The newspaper method is one of the easier ways to housebreak a dog. This method if done correctly will actually allow you to train your dog to go on command. Pick a certain area inside your house as the designated doggy bathroom and lay down several layers of newspaper. Every hour or so take your dog to the designated newspaper spot and tell him to go potty, or any other command you wish to use for this task. You do have to be consistent and use the same command every time.

She will eventually go to the bathroom on the newspaper and when she does be sure to give praise. Also keep a close eye on her around the house and watch for signs that she needs to go to the bathroom. When you spot this behavior take her to the newspaper and give the command to go potty. As she learns to go on command you can start taking her outside to do her business until she learns that is where she is to go.

Potty training a dog is not the most difficult thing to do, but you do have to spend some time and have some patience with your dog to be successful. Once your dog has learned to go outside to relieve herself you can spend more time just enjoying the company a dog brings to you and your family.

The ‘no’ command is a widely used command throughout dog training and is used to tell your dog not to do something or to stop them in their tracks to avoid dangerous situations or general bad behavior.

I think of the no command as more of a training technique rather than a command and to perfect the technique you will need to be consistent for most of your time with your pet dog. The no command isn’t like other commands and is taught over several years rather than a ‘learn it and forget it’ dog training technique.

You can start to teach your dog the no command as soon as you see your cute little puppy doing something wrong for the first time, to most people the command will come naturally when they see their dog causing terror in the house and it will not be too hard for them to remember how to execute the technique.

The no command should come part and parcel with punishing your dog, the idea behind the no command is to teach your dog that ‘no’ means bad behavior and punishment, after teaching this command the end result will be that your dog should stop whatever they are doing when you say ‘no’.

So to make this command work you will need to enforce and recite ‘no’ in a very assertive way whenever you are punishing your dog or see your dog behaving badly that will result in punishment. By doing this your dog will associate ‘no!’ with being punished and making you the owner, unhappy.

If you do this consistently through your dogs earlier years, especially when your dog is a puppy and very impressionable you will gain respect from your dog and just saying ‘no’ alone will be enough to stop your dog in its tracks and save you punishing your dog.

I know from experience that even the best dogs are not always well behaved and do have behavior issues. Just imagine trying to deal with two English Mastiffs, and a little Yorkie Poo. They are next to impossible to deal with when they are all together which is quite often. However, you can learn the tips that I did and how I found out how to control my dogs better than I have ever managed to before! Some of the things I am going to tell you about is training, positive reinforcement, and consulting with your vet to rule out possible health issues.

One of the first things that I had to do to help me out with my dogs was find a dog training course. My husband was not to keen on the idea, but after they were obedience trained he was quite happy because they were no longer dragging him thru the backyard. So that little training helped out tremendously. I feel that training can help dogs of any age or size. They can even help with dog behavior issues.

The next thing that I did to help address my dogs behavior issues were to start with positive reinforcement. I know that is a simple psychological issue to deal with the issues, but it does work quite well. I found that when they misbehave if I ignore them and not show any affection of any sort towards the dog it manages to change their attitude quite quickly. Most dogs do love having attention given to them and without that attention then they typically will correct the bad behavior quickly. However, you must remember that when the dog does something good you have to give them affection right away. I usually give a pat on the chest which according to classes that I have went to makes them feel proud of what they did. I have used treats as a reward at certain times mainly when training them to come after I let them off of the leash.

While those solutions typically work for dealing with your dogs behavior you might have to consult with your vet to help address the issues. I have had to do that for my cat even because her behavior is so terrible. Sometimes as is the case with my cat he prescribed medication for her. That could be what your dog needs to correct any behavior issues that keep recurring. Remember that your sometimes your dogs behavior could be caused by health issues so be sure to check with your vet before trying anything else.

So if your dog is having behavior issues you can try a variety of things. Some of those things include consulting with your vet about possible health issues, positive reinforcement, and dog training. A combination of all those things maybe required which is what I had to do with my dogs. Mainly the training and positive reinforcement which seemed to help out the best since they were only puppies, but in your older dogs it maybe that they are experiencing health issues so you do have to take into account the age of your dog before taking any steps to correct the behavior

How many of your belongings has your dog destroyed? Chewing is a behavior problem that is so frustrating because it can mean big bucks when it is your carpet, sofa, or expensive leather shoes. This is one dog behavior problem that you’ve got to nip in the bud.

The first thing to consider is that dogs need to chew for their mental and dental health. In the wild, chewing is not a dog behavior problem, but a necessity. Make sure that your dog has plenty of safe chew toys to play with. This isn’t going to fix your dog’s chewing problem, but it is only fair to give your dog a healthy outlet for his need to chew.

Once your dog has some toys he is allowed to chew, now you can go to work on showing him what he isn’t allowed to chew.

The first line of defense I recommend to all of my clients is a bitter apple or dog training spray. This is a spray that is manufactured to have a nasty taste to a dog. The idea is that you spray it on the things that your dog wants to chew and when he does chew, the taste will be so unpleasant that it will discourage him from ever chewing on that item again. This spray can work. I have seen several reactions from the spray:

1. Your dog will hate the taste of the spray so much that it will cure him on the spot from ever chewing again. Consider this dog behavior problem gone.

2. Your dog will dislike the taste of the spray so he won’t chew. But then the spray wears off and he goes back to chewing. You can combat this with regular spraying or you can go on to a solution I will discuss later.

3. Your dog doesn’t mind the taste and will keep chewing. You can try a different brand of spray or you can try the following solution.

4. Your dog actually likes the taste of the spray and it is like putting gravy on mashed potatoes. He can’t get enough.

If your dog fits somewhere in number one or two consider yourself lucky. Many dogs are in category three or four. For them you must take a different approach with this dog behavior problem and get a bit more aggressive with your behavior modification techniques.

Supervise your dog. Most times dogs chew out of boredom or obsession and often they do it while you are close by. You must supervise your dog so that you can catch him in the act of chewing. It does you no good to find out that your dog has chewed on something 5 hours, 5 minutes, or even 5 seconds after he has committed his naughty behavior. It must be within one and a half seconds of the act of chewing for you to be able to adequately make your dog link the act of chewing with the associated correction. And correct you must. The best way to correct your dog for chewing is to have him wear a dog training collar (preferably a pinch collar or prong collar ) and a leash while in the house. When he goes to chew on your sofa you can quickly grab the leash and give it a very strong jerk while telling him “No” with a firm voice. If you can catch him in the act of chewing every time several times in a row, and give him a strong correction with the leash, you can get ride of this dog behavior problem while you are around. I will discuss in a moment how to proof this behavior when you aren’t in the room. But for now make sure that you supervise your dog constantly. If you catch him in the act only sometimes when you are paying attention, and not at other times he will soon learn that chewing is ok when you aren’t paying attention. If you can’t supervise him, leave him in a crate or in the backyard where he won’t be able to chew on undesirable things.

This should cure your dog of chewing while you are around.

A problem that I often encounter, however, is the clever dog that has already learned to only chew when someone is not paying attention. It is difficult to correct this dog for chewing because you don’t ever see him do it. It is time to trick this dog.

Smear some peanut butter or cheese (I know, it is going to make your shoes or sofa smell with food smeared on them, but it will clean off) on certain items in the house. Now, make sure your dog is wearing his dog training collar and leash, and get ready to supervise. If your dog is like most dogs he will quickly smell out the delicious smeared foods and go to lick them.

The second he licks the peanut butter grab the leash and give several strong corrections while telling him “No”.

He may not understand why he is being corrected so allow him to try to go after the peanut butter again. If he does, repeat the corrections. Then lead him around the house to all the different areas where you have smeared the peanut butter. You will soon find that his association has changed. The idea of chewing these items, even with food on them, has such a negative feel to it that it can curb the problem quickly.

Some dogs will get pretty clever and realize that they can’t chew when you are around, but the second you leave the house, chewing is fair game. You must out-clever your clever dog. Make him believe that you have left the house but spy on him through the window with your items properly smeared with food. The second he goes to chew, burst in the door, grab the leash, and give several strong corrections. If you do this properly your dog will soon believe that you are omnipotent, and it is better to not chew because who knows where mom or dad may be lurking.

Important: Your dog must be corrected for even licking the ‘baited’ furniture or shoes. It doesn’t matter that he technically isn’t chewing, just the act of him putting his mouth on your stuff is reason enough to correct him.

Be consistent. Be patient. Be clever. Do these things and you will soon be rid of this dog behavior problem.

Dog Behavior Problems - Common Questions answered.

Q 1

My dog and puppy pees when I pet him - what can I do?

A 1

 

Your dog is doing what is known as submissive urination. This is a Housetraining issue and your dog/puppy is actually trying to tell you that you are superior to him. Dog’s communicate very differently to humans and when a puppy or dog is approached by a bigger or more dominant dog - the lower ranking dog may pee to let them know that he respects him. When you lean over your dog you are in a very assertive position - so your dog well pee to tell you that you are more dominant. Don’t shout at him otherwise he may pee more as he doesn’t think you got the message the first time he peed. You may notice submissive urination in certain breeds - it happens to be quiet common in Spaniels.

 

The cure

Dog’s often do submissive urination when you have been gone for a while and come back - consequently the dog maybe excited.

 

The next time you come back from going out - ignore your dog - don’t pet him or greet him - or make eye contact with him - tell any visitors to do the same. As soon as your dog has calmed down after about 15 mins or however long it takes - quietly acknowledge him - make it very matter of fact - don’t get excited otherwise your dog will start peeing. The calmer you are the calmer your dog/puppy will be. Continue to ignore him when you get back and he has calmed down and eventually your puppy/dog will start to get better control of his bladder.

 

Q 2

My dog is doing well in his outdoor training regime but as soon as it rains he will go outside but not potty - what should I do?

A 2

 

Some dogs are able to pee outside in a force 10 hurricane but others see a spot of rain and just won’t go. Think about it though - it’s not very appealing to your dog (and it wouldn’t be to you either) to go outside in the rain and pee. Consider taking him outside with an umbrella - you may feel this is a bit indulgent - but you will have clean carpet. Maybe build a small shelter for him to pee under. Use rewards - use a reward so that as soon as he pees you give him lots of praise and a nice dog treat - a nice piece of beef or liver - this particular trick worked on a Yorkie I was training.)

 

Q 3

I take my dog outside to potty but he takes forever - how do I get him to do his business quicker?

A 3

 

You have quite allot of control over how long it takes your dog/puppy to pee. If you are letting your dog/puppy take 30 minute to find the right spot - then you are teaching him to take 30 minutes to find the right spot. If you want him to take 5 minutes then take him out on his leash and use a cue word that you have decided on - (you may need to refer to one of my other articles) and use the cue word “go potty” or whatever you chose - if he doesn’t go then bring him inside and confine him to his crate for 15 mins. Keep doing this and he will soon realize that he has an allotted time to pee. Continue practising these dog obedience training techniques until you and your dog or puppy have mastered the puppy potty training process.

 

Wouldn’t you rather learn how to deal with minor dog health problems BEFORE they become major ones?  I know I would, because let’s face it, dogs are part of your family, and no one wants to see a part of your family get sick or even die.

Even if you’ve got the most easy-care dog in the world, she’ll still need some attention to be paid to her appearance every once in a while – so it’s worth spending a bit of time learning the best techniques for easy, stress-free grooming.

Here is some of the valuable advice I got from one of my favorite sites for dog health care solutions, The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.

WHY SHOULD I BOTHER GROOMING MY DOG?

Not so long ago, the average American’s approach to canine grooming was somewhat cavalier. Dogs were seen as something that lived in the yard (usually in a dusty, hard-floored kennel), ate whatever was put in their bowls, and existed as a sometime-playmate for the household’s children.

Today, we tend to care for our dogs a lot more, and view them more as members of the household than the Thing in the Yard.

Ever since this rise in the estimation of our beloved pooches became widespread, grooming has been increasingly recognized as an important facet of your dog’s regular health-care. It ensures that any skin-care problems are minimized (because grooming distributes the natural skin-oils evenly throughout the coat), and assists you in monitoring your dog’s overall condition – if you groom on a regular basis, you can’t help but notice the presence of any unusual lumps or bumps.

This preventative action has saved many a canine life. Our dogs can’t tell us where it hurts, but taking just a little bit of time every so often to check them over ourselves can save a lot of grief in the long run.

The trick is getting your dog to tolerate (and even enjoy!) the process …

THE FIRST STEP IN THE GROOMING PROCESS

Something that many owners lack experience in is how to wash their dogs. Dry-grooming (brushing and ‘buffing’ the coat) seems to present little problem for most people; the rot tends to set in when water is introduced to the mix.

Most dogs have a strong dislike of being bathed, and in many cases will become utterly panic-stricken when the tub comes out.

This article is going to deal with the basics of how to wash your dog in a way that’ll keep both of you relaxed and happy.

PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR GROOMING

First of all, the absolute most important thing you can do is to accustom your dog to the grooming process. Now, starting this in puppyhood is the ideal way to handle the situation, but of course not all of us have this luxury; if you’ve got an adult dog, you’ll probably need to move a little slower, but you should still start getting her used to being touched and handled all over as soon as you can.

As your puppy or dog gets used to the sensation of being rubbed and handled, she’ll slowly come to enjoy it. Dogs are social creatures by instinct, and physical affection and contact is a big part of their lives – it shouldn’t take long before she begins to trust you, and allows herself to get some pleasure out of your touch.

All you have to do is start rubbing her slowly all over. Fondle her ears, touch her cheeks and neck, rub her back and belly, pick up her paws and – if she’ll let you – give each one a gentle squeeze (treating and praising her whenever she lets you do this, since paw touching is generally a pretty big deal for most dogs). If she has a tail, rub it between your fingers; get her to roll over on her back so you can rub and stroke her belly and hocks.

This might not seem like such a big deal, but it’s actually a really important part of the grooming process: the more your dog enjoys it, the less stressful the whole event will be for both of you, and so the more often you’re likely to groom her – which increases the health benefits for her.

HOW TO WASH YOUR DOG

Bathing always comes before dry-grooming, since it makes brushing and trimming a lot easier as well as a lot more effective (there’s not much point in brushing a tangled, dirty coat!)

You will need some basic tools: a tub, a non-slip mat, a plastic jug, some warm water, a small sponge, and some canine shampoo (not human shampoo: the pH is all wrong for dogs, and will give her dry and flaky skin.)

Stand her in the tub, on the non-slip mat. If she’s a large or unruly dog, you may want to wash her outside to minimize mess – either that, or you can restrain her by tying one end of a light nylon leash to her collar, and the other end to the faucet.

Pour jugs of warm water all over her until she’s good and wet. This breaks down the grease in her fur, and ensures a thorough shampooing.

Mix a little shampoo with another jug of warm water, and rub it thoroughly into your dog’s fur. Start off with her back and rub it into a good lather (but don’t be too harsh!)

Now you can move on to her head and face. Be very careful here – dogs’ eyes are sensitive too, and if you get any water in her ears, she’ll probably get an ear infection. (You can plug her ears with a small twist of cotton wool to help stop this from happening, if you like.)

Remember to clean under her tail before you wash her off – dip the sponge into the shampoo mixture to do this properly.

Now it’s time to rinse: using the jug and some clean, warm, shampoo-free water, carefully tip it all over her and use your fingers to help disperse the lather from her coat. Rinse her off thoroughly at least twice, since any residue that remains will irritate her skin.

Now you’ll need to dry her off: if she’s got short fur, you can use a towel (an old one will do just fine, although big dogs generally need two); for dogs with longer fur, give her a gentle toweling-off first, and then use a hair dryer to get rid of the last dampness. Be certain that it’s set on low heat, and hold it far away from your dog’s fur to prevent burning either the skin or the fur.

KEEP YOURSELF CALM

Remember that most dogs have an inherent dislike of being bathed, which can cause anxiety and even outright panic.

Your dog takes a lot of her emotional cues from you, so make sure you act like a good role model for the occasion. Reassure your dog frequently, keeping your voice well-modulated, low, and even; keep your movements slow and deliberate; praise her lavishly for good behavior, and give her a couple of treats throughout the process to make it more enjoyable for her.

The more she enjoys the process, the easier it’ll be for you!

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Grooming your dog is just one tiny aspect of maintaining overall health and happiness. For a complete, encyclopedic survival guide to all aspects of dog health, from preventative care to choosing a vet to doggie First Aid (even the canine Heimlich maneuver!), you should take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.

A survival guide for knowledgeable, effective, and life-saving dog care, this manual keeps your dog’s health and wellbeing firmly within your control – which is exactly where you want it to be.

It can’t hurt to look.